If there’s one country in Europe that the term “hidden gem” still applies to for now, it’s Bosnia Herzegovina.
I say “for now”, because the secret’s spreading fast. After slipping under the radar for years, neighbouring Croatia and Montenegro exploded in popularity. Now it’s Bosnia’s turn, and deservedly so.
Bosnia has some of the most scenic locations in Europe, with beautiful river and mountain scenery, especially around Mostar, which I would call the highlight of this fantastic country.
If you’re backpacking through Bosnia, you can easily spend longer enjoying the atmosphere in Sarajevo’s old town, or watching the world go by with a view of Mostar’s Neretva River, but if you only have a week, here’s what I recommend you do.
Left-to-right: Medieval Mostar, Sarajevo’s abandoned bobsled track & Dervish House in Blagaj
1-Week Bosnia itinerary – an overview
Itinerary | What to do | Where to stay |
---|---|---|
Day 1 – Sarajevo | Do a walking tour to learn about the city and the war, then explore the bazaar | Stay at The Place 87, a cozy apartment that’s a 4-minute walk to the Latin Bridge and the Sebilj Fountain |
Day 2 – Sarajevo | – Enjoy a Bosnian breakfast – Hike up Trebević Mountain – Check out the abandoned bobsled track |
Toplik Village Resort has great views of Trebević with an on-site restaurant serving a genuine farm-to-table experience |
Day 3 – Sarajevo | – Learn about Sarajevo’s history in the local museums, – Visit the spot near the Latin Bridge that triggered the start of WWI – Sample rakija in Baščaršija |
Consider a boutique stay at Hotel Aziza or a premium hotel like Swissotel Sarajevo, both just steps from the city center |
Day 4 – Mostar | After arriving and dropping your bags at the hotel, take a walking tour to learn about the city | Stay in Shangri La Mansion, a 5-star hotel in the Old Bazaar Kujundžiluk |
Day 5 – Mostar | – Watch the divers at Stari Most – Explore Mostar’s bazaar – Relax by the river |
Hotel Villa Milas is situated just a 5-minute walk from Stari Most and the vibrant Old Town |
Day 6 – Blagaj | – Day trip to Blagaj seeing the Dervish House (Blagaj Tekke) – Hike up to Blagaj Fortress |
Back to Mostar, where you can spend the night at Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Ćuprija |
Day 7 – Sarajevo | – Take an early train back to Sarajevo – Relax in the old town before you leave |
Time to fly back! |
Days 1 – 3: Sarajevo
In my opinion, Sarajevo’s one of Europe’s most underrated capitals. It’s affordable, safe and avoids the crowds of Rome or Paris for example, plus it has loads to see and do with a cool “east meets west” vibe.
You can feel as if you’re stepping back in time as you walk from the modern shopping malls and cafes of the western side of the city, into the old-school Ottoman-style bazaar of Baščaršija.
For more details, we have a complete Sarajevo guide you can check out, but here I’ll walk you through the essential things to know about Sarajevo for this itinerary.
How to get to Sarajevo
Sarajevo might feel off the beaten path, but getting there is pretty straightforward — here’s a quick guide for arrival by plane, bus, and train.
Sarajevo International Airport is the main hub for flights from abroad into Bosnia. You can reach it from many countries across Europe and the Middle East.
Every major European country has flights going there, as do the popular flight hubs of Turkey and the UAE.
The airport is located in Ilidža which is a little out of the way. However you can take the number 103 trolleybus or a bus towards Baščaršija in the centre.
Be very careful taking a taxi from the airport as overcharging and scams are common. Sarajevo Taxis are particularly notorious for this. The 20-minute trip should cost no more than 20 KM. To avoid the airport taxis, you can ask your hotel to book one, or take the bus.
Unfortunately there is no Uber in Bosnia. The local taxi app (Holand) requires a Bosnian phone number – but isn’t very good anyway…
This is how we arrived in Sarajevo during my second trip to the city in July 2025. We took a night bus from Vienna in Austria to Sarajevo’s bus station, which is conveniently located next to the train station.
It’s also only just over 5 minutes away from two large shopping malls and some big supermarkets, so unlike when travelling to the airport, you arrive right next to some useful amenities here.
Buses run from numerous countries across Europe. More specifically: neighbouring countries Serbia, Montenegro and Croatia, and nearby Slovenia and North Macedonia — all of which you can book through 12go.
From further afield, you can get to Sarajevo from France, The Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, Denmark, Sweden and Turkey.
During my first visit to Sarajevo in 2023, I took the train from Mostar, having initially caught a bus from Montenegro.
Annoyingly, they’ve changed the timetables since then and you can either go really early in the morning (6:33 am) or late in the afternoon, which leaves you with little time to explore when you arrive (5:09 pm Monday-Thursday or 7:56 pm Friday-Sunday).
To take the train to Sarajevo you will most likely arrive elsewhere in Bosnia and have to take a connection, which means I don’t recommend this as the easiest way to reach the capital.
There is a direct train on the Mostar line from Ploče in Croatia to Sarajevo, however, it only runs in the summer (from late June until the end of August usually).
What to do in Sarajevo
Sarajevo is small enough to feel intimate yet layered with centuries of history — a place where Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Balkan influences mix up, making it impossible to ignore. This itinerary will guide you through the best of Sarajevo in 3 days.
Day 1 Morning – Get oriented
My number one travel tip is to start in any new city, especially in a new country, by taking a free walking tour. You learn so much, see some of the highlights of the place, and your guide will often share some local tips with you, including the best things to do and local restaurants.
And that’s exactly what I suggest doing first.
I’ve done two tours in Sarajevo, one that focused on the city and its history together, and more recently, one that informed us solely about the war. I would recommend taking a war tour to really understand from a local how the city was affected, see first hand the scars of war, and learn just how locals survived.
The scars are very visible today, with bullet and shrapnel holes still in many of the old buildings, especially outside the centre, and a series of red markings known as the “Sarajevo scars”.
The Sarajevo scars are filled-in holes in the ground that were caused by mortars during the 4-year Siege of Sarajevo in the early 1990s that claimed 14,000 lives. These striking memorials are a red colour symbolising the bloodshed and suffering here. It’s pretty heavy stuff to look at them when you know why they exist. On a walking tour, your guide will explain all that in much more detail.
For a chance to see everything for free, this walking tour leads you through Sarajevo’s Ottoman mosques, Austro-Hungarian squares, the site where World War I began, and stories from the city’s siege — all while introducing you to Bosnian cuisine, local eateries, and the traditions that make Sarajevo unique.
I use a site called “Guruwalk” to find free walking tours. These tours are not entirely ‘free’ but tips-based. Just remember that for most guides, this is their full-time job and therefore only source of income. So pay fairly!
Afternoon – Explore the buzzing bazaar
As important as it is to understand Sarajevo’s history, war isn’t a particularly cheerful subject. Therefore I recommend balancing your day out with something a little more joyful. And that means checking out the bazaar of Baščaršija.
This is a really fun part of town where you’ll forget you’re in Europe at all. It has more of a Middle Eastern feel to it with all sorts of stalls selling jewellery, copperware and handmade rugs.
If you’re hungry, there’s no shortage of ćevabdžinicas selling cevapi, Bosnia’s most popular dish which consists of minced meat in a sausage shape stuffed into a large flatbread, served alongside raw onions and usually ajvar (a slightly spicy sauce made of peppers and eggplants) and kajmak which has similarities to sour cream.
As a self-diagnosed cevapi addict I love nothing more than ordering this Bosnian favourite whilst sitting outside and watching the world go by. It’s a delicious and relaxing way to spend your afternoon.
Editor’s Note: When asking tour guides or receptionists where to sample traditional Bosnian food in Sarajevo, it seems they all recommend ASDŽ. While it’s nice that they have a bit of everything available here, it’s a surprisingly average buffet-style eatery and maybe not the best example of traditional Bosnian cuisine.
I later discovered a wonderful hidden gem of a restaurant called Sedef that I thought was much better and highly recommended! You can also head to Bravadžiluk street, where you will find several nice casual Bosnian restaurants. — Marek
Lastly, we have the Gazi Husrev-Beg mosque which is Bosnia’s most popular place of worship. You can go inside for a small fee of 3 KM (just over €1.50 – the euro is pegged to the Bosnian mark at rates of 1.95583), but only outside of prayer hours.
If you hang around until the hour mark, you will hear the Islamic call to prayer booming across the city, adding to the non-European feel of the place.
Day 2 — Hike to the abandoned Olympic track
On your second day, kickstart your morning with a typical Bosnian breakfast. You’ll need to fill up as we’ll do a fair bit of walking today!
Naturally, Baščaršija is the perfect place to start.
The most common local breakfasts are generally pastries with savoury fillings. The best-known is burek, a spiral shaped piece of dough filled with (usually) ground beef, and often onions, cheese and spinach.
You can wash this down with a traditional Bosnian coffee (Bosanska Kafa) which is a strong unfiltered drink served in a copper cup. Like burek, it is very similar to what you may find in Turkey.
Then it’s time to get your hiking boots on. Sarajevo has some great views up in the hills, and it’s also home to a bit of Olympic history.
- Distance: ~6 km one way from the city center
- Hike duration: ~1.5–2 hours uphill, depending on pace
- Difficulty: Moderate — some steep sections
- Highlights: Abandoned 1984 Olympic bobsleigh track (which is actually a photogenic spot), panoramic views of Sarajevo, signs of the Siege of Sarajevo along the trail
Tip: If you’re short on time, there’s a cable car option — but walking gives better views and more photo ops.
In 1984, Sarajevo hosted the Winter Olympics on behalf of Yugoslavia, and a few locations used during the event remain in place today.
Unfortunately, not every Olympic arena still exists. The Siege of Sarajevo from 1992-1996 resulted in the destruction of a fair few. It was pretty bad during that period, and the one-time medal podium was even used for executions. Yikes.
Much of what does remain has fallen into a state of disrepair. One such spot is the bobsled track, up on Trebević Mountain, and you can see it by ascending the mountain on foot.
Several places still remind of the aftermath of the Bosnian War 30 years on. One of the heaviest spots came shortly after leaving the old town and ascending the mountain. You will soon come across a graveyard, Groblje Alifakovac. And if you have a look around, you’ll realise that most of the graves have a 1996 death date. In other words, the final year of the siege.
the abandoned bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympics
Groblje Alifakovac graveyard
Further up, you’ll see other signs of Sarajevo’s tragic recent history. There are many bombed-out buildings with missing roofs and windows. In some cases, only small parts of the houses remain, and what is left has been covered in graffiti and left to crumble.
Eventually, you’ll reach the bobsled track. This too is abandoned and covered in graffiti, though it’s nice to see something that stands as a symbol of something more positive in Bosnia’s history than the war. You can actually hike along the bobsled track, which is a pretty cool touch.
Once you reach the bobsled track, there’s a nice viewpoint overlooking the city where you can also see the cable cars coming up. The ride costs 15 KM/9USD (one-way) or 20 KM/12USD (both ways), but to be honest, I enjoyed walking up because of the details you can observe along the way. From the city centre to the top takes about 1.5 hours one way.
Day 3 — War memorials
For your final day in the capital, it’s time to go a little deeper on the history of the city. Only after learning about the worst aspects of Sarajevo’s past can you fully appreciate just how far it has come to turn into the enjoyable and welcoming city it is today.
There are many war museums giving insight into the terrible events of the 1990s. I recommend the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide Museum and the Siege of Sarajevo Museum as you can buy a combined ticket for these two museums for 30 KM. They go into a fair bit of detail, so you’ll understand a lot by the end of your visit.
Just 5 minutes from here is the Latin Bridge, which is a spot best known for a different war: World War I. This is the place where Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which resulted in one of the world’s deadliest conflicts. And you can see the exact spot where Princip stood on this fateful day in 1914.
(selenar/DepositPhotos.com)
Fortunately, the lows are in the past, and you’re here to experience the best of what Sarajevo has to offer today. For your last night in Sarajevo I suggest sampling the local spirit, rakija, a fermented fruit brandy that the locals absolutely love.
If you’re invited into a Bosnian home, the hosts will generally offer this as a welcome drink.
I first received it at the Good Place Hostel which is where I stayed during my first Sarajevo trip in 2023. The host Igor is a super friendly guy who offered guests some of Bosnia’s most beloved alcoholic beverages. I will warn you though… you shouldn’t drink this stuff on an empty stomach as it hits pretty hard and not many people have the tolerance of a Balkan local!
Baščaršija is of course the place to go for rakija. There is a small bar called Birtija that sells several flavours of rakija for 3-4 KM each.
Where to stay in Sarajevo
Baščaršija
You will most likely stay in or around Baščaršija, which is the Ottoman-style historical centre of Sarajevo. This is the most fun part of the city, and everything’s on your doorstep here so you won’t have a long way to go in order to find things to do.
The one drawback is that it gets busy around here and can be noisy at night. I’d recommend staying a little further away on a Friday or Saturday if you don’t want to hear lots of shouting and music from the local bars. But if noise doesn’t bother you too much, then this is easily the best spot to stay in.
Bistrik
Just south of the river, you have Bistrik, a much quieter part of the city. Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot of accommodation here, so your options are limited. However, it literally takes 5 minutes to walk up to Baščaršija, and it’s a quieter area to stay that is still highly central.
Ilidza
This is where the airport is located. I’d only recommend staying here if you’re flying in or out of the city and your flight is at an inconvenient time. However, that is the only reason to stay here. You need to head towards Baščaršija to reach the interesting parts of Sarajevo.
Day 4 & 5: Mostar
If Sarajevo is the best-known place in Bosnia, then Mostar is surely second.
Mostar is one of my favourite cities in Europe. It’s incredibly scenic and shares Sarajevo’s “east meets west” vibe, where you have Ottoman bazaars by the River Neretva, contrasting with the likes of the modern Mepas Mall, where you can do a bit of shopping.
I’ve been to Mostar three times now, and will probably be back a fourth, fifth and so on in the future!
It’s a small city with just over 100,000 inhabitants and a small historical section. It doesn’t have infinite things to do, as it’s more of a place where you go to relax, enjoy the local food and views, and watch the world go by.
The famous Stari Most (Old Bridge) — a UNESCO World Heritage site and a symbol of the city
How to get to Mostar
If you’re following this itinerary, the road from Sarajevo to Mostar winds through mountains, rivers, and lakes. The best way to take it all in is by bus or train. Here’s a breakdown of your options.
It’s pretty easy to take a bus here either from elsewhere in Bosnia or internationally. The first time I came to Mostar, it was via bus from Montenegro (Kotor, to be exact), the third time around I took a bus down from Sarajevo which took just under 3 hours.
If you’re taking the bus to Mostar from Sarajevo (as suggested in this itinerary), expect to pay around US$14.50 for a bus at 9:55 AM.
There are around 12 buses a day during the week and 8-9 on weekends, however the 9:55 AM is the only one for that price. The 5:04 AM bus costs a few cents more and the rest cost up to around the US$19.50 mark.
The main bus station is right next to the train station in Mostar.
Unless arriving from Ploče in Croatia (possible during the summer only), you will probably be coming from Sarajevo if you take the train to Mostar.
The Sarajevo–Mostar train runs 2 times a day:
- Train 723: Departs Sarajevo at 7:15 AM, arriving in Mostar at 9:13 AM.
- Train 721: Departs Sarajevo at 4:46 PM, arriving in Mostar at 6:48 PM.
The train costs 14.10 KM/8.48USD for a one-way ticket, or 22.60 KM/13.59USD if you plan on going back in the same direction within 6 days. It takes around 2 hours which makes it quicker than the bus.
Both the train and bus routes are pretty scenic, so you can enjoy a lot of greenery during the journey with nice lake and mountain views. For a day trip, the morning train is best. It arrives around 9 AM and gives you the whole day to see Mostar.
Pro tip: If you have an exact travel plan, I recommend buying a round-trip ticket straight away — you’ll get a 20% discount. Tickets can be purchased at the station or online through the official ŽFBH website.
Mostar also has a very small international airport with flights arriving from neighbouring Serbia and Croatia, as well as Germany and Italy.
This airport could potentially serve as an alternate starting point for this itinerary, but there are no direct flights between Sarajevo and Mostar — so train and bus are the logical options for this journey.
What to do in Mostar
A lot of the fun in Mostar revolves around just chilling out. You don’t need to exhaust yourself doing loads of physical exercise here. Just slow down for a bit and enjoy the surroundings.
The beautiful river and mountain scenery, the cobbled streets and the relaxing sounds from the local mosques all play a part in Mostar’s charm, not to mention the delicious food!
Before that however, I recommend learning all about the city. And there’s no better way to do that than via a free walking tour.
Day 4
If you follow this itinerary exactly, then you will arrive from Sarajevo via bus or train around late morning.
I recommend dropping your bags at your accommodation before anything else, because Mostar can be tricky to navigate with heavy luggage. In the summer time, it reaches 40 degree temperatures making it a challenge to walk around with a heavy load.
At any time of year, it gets busy around the bazaar, and whilst the risk is low, pickpockets do operate there. In fact, when I did a walking tour of the city, our guide pointed out some known pickpockets during the tour. And they weren’t exactly sorry when called out in front of our group…
The Old Bazaar in Mostar
After lightening your load and relaxing for a bit, head to the start point for your walking tour and meet your guide.
You will learn about how 75% of Mostar was destroyed during the Bosnian war, making it the most heavily-hit city in the country. You may notice even some old apartment buildings that are riddled with bullet holes and shrapnel damage.
The conflict between Bosniaks, Serbs, and Croats created an ethnic divide—Bosniaks mostly live east of the Neretva River in Mostar, Croats to the west. Perhaps the craziest thing our guide mentioned was how many Croats and Bosniaks have never crossed the river despite living in the city for literally decades, purely because of the tensions between the groups.
Now you can definitely notice differences between the two sides. On the Bosniak side you have more mosques with the Islamic call to prayer a common sound. You also have the majority of the Ottoman-style bazaar on this side.
The Croat side however has the sound of church bells ringing, and few Islamic or Ottoman features, outside of the tail end of the bazaar which sneaks just over the famous Stari Most bridge.
I prefer the east of the river as it has a lot more going on, and you can find delicious Turkish-style treats such as baklava and Turkish delight there.
Although the west side is at least more pedestrian-friendly with (mostly) smoother paths. On the east side you will often end up walking in the road due to obstructions on the pavement (in areas where there is a path at all).
By the end of your tour, you should have a good feel for the place.
Day 5
Your tour guide would have taken you through the best spots the previous day and explained a lot about them. But on day 5, you will have time to slow down and fully enjoy them.
Start by heading to the famous bridge, Stari Most. Every so often, local divers will jump into the Neretva River below which can be quite the spectacle to watch.
You have to be patient however as they can spend up to half an hour preparing for their dive, and collecting donations from the crowds that will slowly gather.
It’s worth the wait if you get a good view. I recommend going to the west side of the bridge for the best view on the bridge itself. However for an even better view, cross to the west side then turn left and left again to head downstairs to a beach spot beside the river itself.
From here you can look straight on towards the bridge from where the divers jump.
After watching this, go back to the east side and spend some time exploring the Ottoman-style bazaar.
You can take some time to check out all the trinkets for sale, but really the highlight is the food. As I mentioned earlier, you have no shortage of Turkish-style treats here. The ice cream is also fantastic. It’s incredibly creamy and tastes great.
Pro tip, walk through the bazaar away from the bridge to find the cheapest ice cream. The quality is no different compared to the more expensive stalls. It costs 3 KM/2USD for one scoop by the bridge, 2 KM/1USD slightly away from the bridge, and 1.5 KM as you reach the outskirts of the bazaar just before you’re back to normal roads.
For the rest of the day, walk around the river and grab a beer at the bottom of the river beneath Stari Most. They have a craft beer stand if that’s your thing, or you can do as we did and purchase some cans from Konzum which is up on Gojka Vukovica a couple of minutes away.
Oh, and don’t forget to tuck into some delicious cevapi for lunch! You can find it for around 14 KM/8USD in the bazaar on the east of the river. You will have to walk a little away from the bridge to find the restaurants clustered together.
If you want a more upmarket dining experience, we enjoyed Karting Klub which is a bit further out, a 35-minute walk from Stari Most. They do all sorts of Bosnian favourites as well as pizzas, salads and other foods you’ll find back home. My only criticism of them would be slow service.
Where to stay in Mostar
Pro tip: stay by the river in Mostar
There’s only really one rule that applies when finding good accommodation in Mostar; stay near Stari Most. The closer you are to the bridge, the closer you will be to pretty much everything worth seeing.
Although you may want to stay a block or two back from the river to avoid all the noise from other visitors.
During my first Mostar trip I stayed in Taso’s Hostel. It was a very good albeit basic hostel experience with a shared dorm. However breakfast was included, the host Taso was very friendly, and it was only a short walk from Stari Most.
During my second and third visits, I stayed in apartments a little further out. The third time around we stayed near the Karting Klub 35 minutes away, and to be honest that wasn’t the best location.
Day 6 – Blagaj
Blagaj is a small but cool little town a 20-minute bus ride from Mostar. It has some charming scenery and is definitely worth a day trip (well really a half-day trip as you can easily see everything in this time).
How to get to Blagaj
Getting to Blagaj seems easy on paper, but it’s a nightmare in reality. It only takes 20 minutes to get there by bus from Mostar, so it’s got to be easy right?
Wrong!
The bus stop is located next to the United World College, with an apparent timetable inside it. However the bus doesn’t stick to the timetable. We arrived early, and waited over two hours before it eventually came.
The good news is that it costs just 2.5 KM each way. The other good news is that it’s worth it! You don’t need to stay here overnight as it’s easy to see everything in a few hours. Therefore it’s best to stay in Mostar and take the bus back from next to a small shop called Amko Komerc 54.
What to do in Blagaj
You have two main things to do here.
The main attraction is Blagaj Tekke, a Dervish monastery tucked into the cliffs alongside a clear blue body of water. The monastery costs 10 KM//6USD to enter.
It was built as a place for Sufi Muslims to engage in praise chanting (chanting slogans in praise of God). And it is still used for such purposes three times a week today.
However, during most of the week, you won’t be able to see this and the inside can be a bit dull unless you’re really keen on seeing the red carpets and intricate ceilings that make up this place.
My recommendation would be to enjoy the views from the outside instead whilst sitting at one of the nearby restaurants and getting stuck into some cevapi. After seeing the monastery, you can hike up to Blagaj Fortress up in the cliffs above. It will take around 30 minutes to get up there.
The path is quite rocky at times however, so bring some good hiking boots to minimise the risk of losing your balance.
The fortress is free to enter, which makes sense as it has been reduced to ruins these days. Once you’re done, head back to the bus stop and return to Mostar.
Day 7 – Sarajevo
For your last day in the country, it’s time to take an early train or bus back from Mostar to Sarajevo.
The trains run at 6:33am (daily), 5:09pm (Monday-Thursday) and 7:56pm (Friday-Sunday). Buses are more frequent.
Once you make it back to the capital, I recommend winding down for your final afternoon in Bosnia and enjoying the sights, smells and tastes of the bazaar for one last time before you leave the country.
Where to go next
If you’re planning to backpack the Balkans, Bosnia shares borders with three countries—Croatia, Serbia, and Montenegro—each offering its own unique attractions, landscapes, and cultural experiences.
Serbia – Belgrade
Despite tensions between Bosniaks and Serbs over the tragic events of the past, it’s relatively easy to take a 10-hour bus (or less if you’re lucky with traffic and border crossings) to Belgrade.
While I’m too old to be hanging around in nightclubs now, the city is most famous for its incredible nightlife which comes highly recommended from those who love wild parties, especially in splavs – floating nightclubs (although the term also applies to restaurants) on the Danube.
I will say the food is great, Serbian cuisine is pretty similar to Bosnian. Skadarlija has plenty of restaurants, and some even have traditional Serbian bands playing live music as you eat.
Montenegro – Kotor, Budva, Perast, Durmitor National Park or Ulcinj
The epic fjord-like Kotor Bay in Montenegro
Between the cobblestone streets and alleys of Kotor
Bosnia’s southern neighbour is best known for its stunning coastline. I first arrived in Bosnia from Kotor which is a great spot with a beautiful historic old town, some cool hiking trails around the outskirts, and a large bay which is popular for water activities.
I was there in the off-season (early March) when it was still cold, and still had a lot of fun there. Accommodation is also much cheaper than during the summer months, and you don’t have to fight your way through crowds of tourists.
Party town Budva, historical Perast and the mountains of Durmitor National Park are other popular spots. In Durmitor, you can even go white water rafting, a real draw for thrillseekers.
Don’t bother with the boring capital Podgorica which has little of interest.
Buses from Sarajevo run all the way to the quiet beach town of Ulcinj in the south, with stops in coastal hotspots Tivat and Kotor along the way. They also head through Mostar
This means that if heading to Montenegro, you will want to tweak this itinerary slightly to ensure your final day is in Mostar rather than backtracking to the capital.
Croatia – Dubrovnik or Split
The landscape of Dubrovnik old town, Croatia
Perhaps the most famous of Bosnia’s neighbours. Along the coast, you have Dubrovnik, which blew up in popularity due to being a filming location for the TV series Game of Thrones.
I quite enjoyed Split which is further up the coast. It’s nice and peaceful around Bacvice Beach, especially around sunset.
The more lively areas are around Diocletian’s Palace, with several bars and restaurants along the waterfront. I reached Split via a direct bus from Sarajevo. There are four buses every day, running at 6am, 7am, 10am and 3pm.
Dubrovnik has two daily buses from the Bosnian capital, leaving at 7:15 am and 10am. Croatia’s “hidden gem” era is well and truly over, and it certainly isn’t as budget-friendly as Bosnia, but it’s still a cool country with a lot worth seeing.
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