Leaving Lake Titicaca, my plan is to take the train to Cusco and onwards to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. But transportation strikes and not having enough time to risk it, means it’s pretty much a non-starter.
So what to do with a few days instead?
Where, within reasonable travelling distance, have I not yet been?
Quito in 18 stories
Ecuador, that’s where! 15 minutes later, flights are sorted.
No sooner said than done
That turns out to be a great decision. Hidden high in the Andes, at nearly 2,850 metres altitude, Quito is one captivating little city, and the second highest capital in the world (only beaten by La Paz).
Looking for culture, history, and a little sweetness on the side? Look no further. Quito is the place for you. It is compact, easy to get around, very walkable, with fab architecture and dramatic mountain views all round.
Quito’s Old Town: colonial splendour meets Andean charm
Quito’s beating heart is Centro histórico, the old town, one of the most beautiful and best-preserved colonial districts in all of Latin America. In fact, it was one of the first two cities in the world to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage site back in 1978 (alongside Kraków), and it is not hard to see why. Many colonial cities have traded that old-world charm for nondescript modernisation, but not Quito, oh no! She has fiercely protected her history.
It is a vibrant, chaotic maze of narrow cobbled streets, Baroque churches and colonial houses in bright white or shades of pastel.
The heart of the beating heart is Plaza Grande. You could spend several hours walking around here alone. I do, gawking at colourful balconies dripping with geraniums, and drinking juice at the many outdoor cafes – trying every juice on the menus, in fact. Watermelon is a favourite. And papaya. And mint.
I snap hundreds of photos, browse through shops, cheer on street performers, walk past old monasteries (cause you simply cannot go inside everyone, it’s that many). I get lost in the side streets and hidden courtyards, and most of all, observe life as it passes by this busy square.
There are lots of uniforms here – metropolitan police, national police, tourist police, military, and various patrol guards. The heavily guarded Palacio de Carondelet, the Presidential Palace, is no exception.
My Quito accoms
Got lucky with my accommodations in this city. I booked a room at Friends Hotel & Rooftop for the first night, simply because there was no availability for the following nights.
This friendly place (pun intended) is a few blocks’ walk from Plaza Grande, on a quiet side street, and feels more like a hostel than a hotel – in the best possible way. (And no, nothing sponsored here – or anywhere – in Quito.)
Spot the little blackboard? Gotta love it!
The next day, I move on to Patio Andaluz, an upscale boutique hotel in the middle of it all – at a last-minute inexpensive price. It is located in a gorgeous 16th century colonial building just off Plaza Grande – and it has a chocolate shop with free tastings!
The indoor patio is lovely, the chess tables placed along the balustrade challenge the holiday laze, and the sunroom on top makes me want to stretch like a cat in a sun-warmed spot.
The golden glow of Quito’s churches
Quito is a city of churches. Many, many churches. They are all over the old town, and they are not just places of worship, they are architectural wonders. It is quite difficult to choose which ones of these golden masterpieces to step inside for a closer look.
But choose I must. First, I stop by Iglesia de el Sagrario, because as I walk past, it kinda draws me in.
Then, the majestic Quito Cathedral on Plaza Grande seems the logical choice.
La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús: the even more golden church
Yale, the friendly receptionist at Friends Hotel has recommendations, and one in particular: La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.
Jesus’ own church is shining. Literally! The interior of this Jesuit church is almost entirely covered in 23-karat gold leaf, more than 50 kg of it! Add intricate carvings, dramatic altars, twisted columns, and patterns that remind me of Morocco… this is jaw-dropping Baroque excess at its finest.
A guide that is included in the entrance fee, shows me to a lift and soon, we are on the roof, surrounded by gorgeous green and white ceramic-tiled domes.
This is the place to see Quito in 360°: red-tiled roofs, narrow streets, colonial plazas. If the weather is clear, you might even see the peak of Cotopaxi, one of the highest volcanoes in the world.
From the roof, I spot El San Francisco – a huge Franciscan complex: 13 cloisters, 3 churches, 3,500+ religious art pieces, and a library with thousands of books and historic documents. And a spacious plaza. Phew!
And here is Basilica del Voto Nacional, the largest neo-Gothic cathedral in all of the Americas.
Still more records: On the horizon, I see El Panecillo Hill and Mary with wings: she is the tallest aluminium statue in the world.
A sweet pause at the coolest eatery in Quito
All this history, all those churches. I think a sweet break is in order.
I have heard raving tales about Heladeria San Agustin, and go looking for it. The name suggests it is near Iglesia San Agustin, which I have passed a few times already. And the address is Calle Guyaquil, one of the city’s main thoroughfares. It should be easy enough to find this quirky ice cream shop, but you know me… I can get lost in my own back yard. I walk up and down the street a few times, both sides of it, before the door is staring me in the face.
There it is: a 167-year-old ice cream shop!
This traditional ice cream parlour in Quito’s historic centre has been serving helado de paila for generations.
I adore the interior: tiled floors, polished wooden counters, vintage mirrors, nostalgic details, all in a warm, timeless atmosphere. It feels like I have been transported back to the Belle Époque in this kaleidoscope of old-world hues and textures.
The real stars here are helado de taxo (banana & passionfruit), naranjilla or guanábana – local fruits turned into creamy scoops of joy, the ancient Andean way: hand-stirred in copper pans over ice.
But they also have a comprehensive lunch menu. Which suits me just fine.
Chicken and virgin mojito
When I go to the counter to pay, Friar Andres hands me a sweet; looks innocent enough…
Sweet and boozy keeps the demons away
Quito practicals and fun facts
Transportation: I’m walking everywhere, but other travellers I meet tells me Uber is the thing here in Quito. It works well and is usually cheaper – and safer, especially at night – than hailing a taxi along the street.
Altitude: You’re high up, so take it easy to begin with. Stay hydrated and stay away from alco until you are acclimatised.
***********
Fun Fact 1: Quito is the closest capital city to the equator. The imaginary 0° latitude line passes through the northern parts of the city.
Fun fact 2: Because of the altitude, water boils at only about 90°C instead of 100°C.
Fun fact 3: Since Quito lies in a narrow Andean valley (over 40km long, but only a few km wide), the streets and neighbourhoods are long and winding.
Fun Fact 4: Dollar coins. US dollar coins, that is. Turns out they are not used much (or at all?) in the USA. Can’t think why not. Coins are much more efficient than paper.
3 days is normally fine to get a halfway decent first impression of a city. Would have loved to stay a few more days in Quito, though.
Could’a, would’a, should’a stayed a bit longer.
City of Quito is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Here are more UNESCO World Heritage sites we have visited around the world.
Please visit:
Our Sponsor