Many travelers to Cuba find themselves drawn to the comforts of all-inclusive resorts—places where mojitos flow endlessly, and every need is catered to. But in 2009, my partner and I yearned to experience the ‘real’ Cuba—the Cuba beyond the hotel gates, beyond manicured beaches, and into the heart of the island’s vibrant culture and daily life.
To do that, we hired a car, packed our sense of adventure, and embarked on a two-day road trip through the Cuban countryside. What unfolded was an unforgettable exploration, not just of places but of people—hitchhikers whose stories painted a vivid picture of life in Cuba. Usually, you’ll find me hiking, but picking up hitchhikers in Cuba proved a great way to see the island.
Why is everyone hitchhiking in Cuba?
This article takes readers on a journey through the roads less traveled, offering a glimpse of Cuba’s hitchhiking culture, the warmth of its people, and the hidden gems you might otherwise miss.
Why hitchhiking matters in Cuba
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Hitchhiking in Cuba isn’t just a quirky pastime—it’s a necessity. With limited public transport options, especially in rural areas, locals rely heavily on hitchhiking to get around. To support this system, the Cuban government employs amarillos or ‘yellow men,’ uniformed officials stationed at major intersections and highways. Their job? To coordinate rides, ensuring everyone gets where they need to go. Hitchhikers pay approximately 20 Cuban pesos (about $1 per 100km).
For travelers with a car, participating in this system is an opportunity to connect with locals in a deeply authentic way. It’s not just about getting from point A to point B; it’s about the conversations, the cultural exchanges, and the insight into Cuban life that you can’t get from a guidebook.
As we drove along the winding roads of Cuba, we decided to embrace this tradition, picking up hitchhikers who not only shared their destinations with us but also their stories, perspectives, and even a little history.
The benefit was twofold – the lack of decent maps and absence of road signs, coupled with the meandering roads, made it so hard for us to know where we were going, that local knowledge became an essential navigation aid. This was before the time of Google maps! I’m no stranger to navigating—if I’m hiking I use a map, compass, and apps and I follow cairns—but Cuba’s roads were confusing!
The road to hidden Cuba
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One of the most magical parts of our journey was the tips we picked up along the way—both from the locals we met on the road and the people we spoke to at our hotel. The first morning at breakfast, we got some travel tips from the guy who chopped up fresh mangos with a machete-like knife.
His advice led us to a little-known beach (Caleta Buena) near Playa Girón on the Bay of Pigs coastline. There, we paid around 15 euros for an all-inclusive day with excellent snorkelling, sunbeds, three-course lunch and unlimited drinks.
The road there was wild. We had turquoise sea and mangroves to the right and jungle to the left. The highlight was thousands of crabs crossing the road. While it did slow us down, it was a delight to see the crabs rear up and wave their ‘fist’ at us as we inched closer.
The people we met when hitchhiking in Cuba
Hitchhiking in Cuba brought us face-to-face with an array of fascinating characters, each with a story to tell. Among them was a history professor on his way to visit his brother. As we drove, he shared insights about Cuban history and politics, offering a perspective far richer than any museum tour could provide.
We asked him how long it would take for him to make the journey all the way to see his brother, and how would his brother know when to expect him? He explained that there was no way to know – he could be lucky and get there in one day, or it might take a week. His brother would be pleased to see him whenever he got there.
Later, we picked up a young Venezuelan medical student traveling with his girlfriend. They told us about Cuba’s renowned medical education system and the opportunities it gave them. Their enthusiasm for their studies was infectious, and they were really enjoying their time on the island.
Then there were the two local women who rode with us for a stretch of countryside. Without them, we never would have found the next village along our planned route. As we passed fields bursting with wildflowers, they proudly explained why the landscape was so vibrant: everything in Cuba is organic. They were boisterous, full of energy and very happy with their lives.
A glimpse into Cuban life
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Our journey wasn’t just about the road—it was also about where we stopped. One night, we booked into a hotel near the Bay of Pigs, a popular holiday spot for Cubans. It was more basic than the vast hotels that cater to foreigners, but it had all we needed. Unlike tourist-filled resorts, this hotel gave us a glimpse into how Cubans vacation. Families laughed together over meals, children played in the pool, and the atmosphere was lively and communal.
Staying here was a reminder that while Cuba often feels like a world apart, its people share universal joys: family, food, and a good time.
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Curious facts about hitchhiking in Cuba
- Cubans call hitchhiking ‘ir con la botella’, which translates as ‘go with the bottle’. This is because the thumb you stick out when you ask for a ride, is the same as the hand signal used for taking a drink!
- Cuba’s public transport system literally came to a halt after the collapse of the Soviet Union. They lost their ally and supply of oil and fuel.
- In the early 2000s, the Cuban government officially nationalized hitchhiking as a bonafide way for people to get around.
Practical tips for picking up hitchhikers in Cuba
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- Respect local customs: Hitchhiking in Cuba operates on trust and community spirit. Be polite and open to conversation.
- Prepare for the unexpected: Roads can be unpredictable, and plans may change. Embrace spontaneity—it’s part of the adventure.
- Be mindful of space: Offer rides only if you have room to spare and can safely accommodate passengers.
- Safety first: Cuba is usually safe, but exercise common sense. Avoid picking up hitchhikers in isolated areas at night.
Top tips for hitchhiking in Cuba
- Make an effort with the language: Try to learn a few words in Spanish – at least to describe where you want to go.
- Patience is a virtue: Be prepared to have to wait long periods for a ride, and have a plan B in case you can’t get picked up.
- Pay for your trip: Have small change to pay for your ride as change probably won’t be given.
- Ask for the nearest ‘punto amarillo’ as that’s the best place to get picked up.
- Safety first: Cuba is generally safe, but do tell someone where you are planning to go and if possible send a message to a friend giving details of the car that picked you up.
Discovering a different Cuba
Giving hitchhikers a ride gave us a window into a part of Cuba that most tourists never see. It was a journey not just of kilometers but of connections—of shared stories, laughter, and moments that stayed with us long after we returned home.
For travelers willing to venture beyond the confines of resorts and explore, Cuba offers an experience like no other. Hitchhiking, or picking up hitchhikers, isn’t just a way to get around; it’s a way to truly see the island, through the eyes of the people who call it home.
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