Standing along the crater edge in Mt. Bromo National Park and seeing the first sunrays hitting the clouds around the volcanic peaks — shivering and clattering my teeth but warmed by the epic vista unfolding in front of me — it truly hit me just how much of an epic adventure it is to travel in Java.
This Indonesian region has a perfect combination of being easy to navigate while having tons of incredible top-tier sights at every step. Even on a shorter trip of around a week, you can have an action-packed trip that includes most of the best highlights, including some furious volcanoes, thundering waterfalls, and epic ancient temples.
In this in-depth Java travel guide and itinerary, I’ll explain exactly how to plan one or two weeks in Java. By the end of your trip, you can even easily link up to Bali by ferry to create an even bigger travel route.
Standing atop the Ijen crater rim at sunrise
What to expect
Before we dig in, let me give you a rough outline of what travel in Java is like. Since most people are more familiar with the resort island of Bali, let me contrast the two a bit here.
I think Java is best tackled if you’re a cultural or adventure traveller wanting to travel through the heart of Indonesia. Whereas in Bali I (mostly) feel like I’m on a beach holiday, in Java I feel much more like I’m having an experience, if that makes sense.
Mind you, Java is 33 times bigger than Bali — and with a population of over 157 million, it’s Indonesia’s most densely populated region. It’s highly urbanised with lots of interesting chaos in markets and squares, but you can also easily escape it inside the smaller villages and inside the national parks. (Just beware the capital, Jakarta, isn’t so instantly welcoming. More on this later.)
From the chaotic markets in Jakarta… 
To the otherworldly landscapes of Bromo…
Java is a Muslim-majority island, in contrast to the predominantly Hindu faith in Bali (Indonesia has six official religions — see my overview of all the islands). Some travellers might mostly associate Islam with highly conservative cultures in the Middle East, which can be a bit of a culture clash for some travellers, but Indonesia is a secular country and Islam is relatively moderate here.
Take drinking. Although taxed heavily, alcohol is broadly available, and a city like Jakarta is even known for its vibrant nightlife with its numerous bars and clubs. While it’s not quite so easy to grab a beer literally everywhere, if you enjoy the odd alcoholic drink, you won’t exactly be parched in Java.
Sometimes things are a bit subtle, though: in one hostel in Malang (which presumably didn’t have a full alcohol license), I had to ask for the “apple juice” if I wanted a beer. I just thought this was funny.
One bit of etiquette is that you should dress appropriately when visiting temples or mosques, ensuring your knees and shoulders are covered. Sarongs or sashes are usually available.
If you don’t look Indonesian, you will undoubtedly attract the attention of locals everywhere you go. People will often spontaneously greet you, ask you where you’re from, ask to take pictures with you, or even approach you for a detailed conversation (these are often students wanting to practice their English). Whenever I get my drone out, I often find myself locked into chats with gathering onlookers while also having to pilot, so be prepared to multitask!
Despite its considerable size and fairly chaotic cities, I rate Java as highly beginner-friendly. This is because there are so many great transportation options, and the more remote sites (like volcanic peaks) can be conveniently reached using local tours. Still, depending on how much time you have, you have some tricky decisions to make on what to include in your route.
Alright, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of planning a trip to Java…
Not to miss: sunrise at the Buddhist temple of Borobodur
Planning considerations
Where to start: two routes through Java
This itinerary guide is based on my two trips through Java. The first time, I focused on the highlights in the east (starting my trip in Yogyakarta), while the second time I travelled the whole length from West to East Java.
Since I’ve done it twice — each time travelling in a different direction, using different transportation methods, and hitting up different sights — I can tell you first-hand about some of the distinct paths available. Instead of retelling just one trip, I will be describing different options throughout this guide.
With that said, I believe your first decision for a Java highlights trip is whether to do only East Java or to try and cover both West and East.
If you have one week (or less), I recommend starting in Yogyakarta. This cultural hub and university city at the heart of Java is of much more immediate tourist interest than the chaotic and overwhelming capital of Jakarta (note: they have similar names, but they’re very different cities!). I think Yogyakarta makes for an easy launching point, in particular if it’s your first time in Indonesia and/or Southeast Asia. It’s a lot less intense than Jakarta or Surabaya and offers several amazing sights within a reasonable driving distance.
The shorter version of my itinerary is to go to Yogyakarta → Malang → Mt. Bromo → ferry to Bali (at least, if this is your next destination). This way, you can experience many of Java’s highlights in a fairly compact trip, including the famous ancient temples, epic volcanoes, and two friendly medium-sized cities that have lots to see and do.
If you have more than a week, consider starting in Jakarta. The capital is a love-it-or-hate-it place, but this epic megacity does give you a proper perspective on what the real Java is like. I think it’s a great add-on if you’re not in a rush, but I’ll have more to say about Jakarta later.
Bandung is an interesting city with many underrated sights nearby. With extra time available, consider spending an additional day in Malang, or including Mt. Bromo, Mt. Ijen, and the epic waterfalls of Tumpak Sewu in your sightseeing schedule. With at least 10 to 14 days, you can have an experience in Java that will feel very complete and diverse.
The long version of my itinerary goes Jakarta → Bandung → Yogyakarta → Malang → Mt. Bromo / Mt Ijen / Tumpak Sewu Waterfall → Banyuwangi → ferry to Bali
Whichever way you do it, Java will easily let you follow a compact and action-packed route through the heart of Indonesia.
Two travel methods for Java
Once you’ve honed in on a trip length and rough outline for your route, I think your next important decision is whether to:
- make use of local multi-day tours, or…
- do-it-yourself the whole way
Either way, travelling in Java is relatively easy thanks to being the most densely developed island in Indonesia. There are loads of public transportation options everywhere (e.g., multiple connections per hour between major cities) as well as tourist shuttle services that let you cover lots of ground with ease.
While some aspects of Java can be challenging for a beginner (such as the traffic mayhem in the big cities), the logistics are, for the most part, uncomplicated. But that doesn’t mean you won’t still have some planning to do!
The pleasant historical city of Malang
On my first Java backpacking trip, I was working with quite a tight schedule. I had just 6 days to catch some of the highlights in Java, before continuing my trip eastwards to Bali and Lombok. I first spent 3 days in Yogyakarta getting to know the city and visiting the ancient Buddhist and Hindu temples of Borobudur and Prambanan.
I then hopped on a 3-day Bromo, Ijen & Bali tour that took me by minibus to see Mt. Bromo volcano at sunrise, dropped me at a hotel in a village with hot springs for a relaxing stay, continued to the epic blue-flame volcano of Mt. Ijen, before dropping me off at the ferry to Bali. This made planning my trip super easy, and it was an amazingly efficient way to make the most of a quick trip.
On my second Java trip, I had two weeks during which I retraced some of my steps but also covered lots of new ground. I travelled by train between the cities and used a scooter (motorbike) rental and some locally organised day trips for my sightseeing.
This worked really well too, giving me more control over the experience and more freedom, though it wasn’t as time-efficient as using an off-the-rack tour to see the highlights.
Easiest with a tour: the incredible Tumpak Sewu waterfall
If you are a time-pressed traveller, I advise looking closely at the many 2-3-day East Java tours available. There are tons of options, some starting in Yogyakarta and others in Malang. They typically cover places that are hard to reach on your own, like Mt. Bromo volcano (which is inside a massive national park) and Tumpak Sewu Waterfall (which is 2 hours outside of Malang).
The tours tend to be affordably priced, especially considering they include food and lodging. Plus, if you’re heading to Bali, you can do a tour that involves no backtracking at all, starting in one of the cities and ending at the ferry departure point for Bali (or your flight out of Java).
I can’t think of many places in Southeast Asia where there are so many local tour options that let you tick so many things off the list.
Some of your multi-day tour options include:
Doing the city exploration on your own but tackling the more remote sights with a tour can be a great way of forming a highly streamlined itinerary.
If you’re a slow traveller or simply have a bit more time available, you can choose to do most of the travelling independently. However, know that sights like Mt. Bromo are more difficult to fully do on your own. You’ll typically want to get a day tour with a 4×4 jeep there anyway. I’ll have specific tips for this in the sections to come.
Find your fav East Java Multi-day trip
How to get around in Java
Before I get to my step-by-step itinerary, a few words on how you can best connect the dots on the map. Each leg between the major waypoints actually has lots of transport options to choose from.
Being Indonesia’s most populous and developed island, the infrastructure in Java is, on the whole, very good. Coach buses and trains connect all the major cities pretty much around the clock.
While buses are an option, I recommend taking trains whenever possible. They’re comfortable, usually faster than buses, and often pass by lots of wonderful scenery. I especially love the mountainous sections between Bandung and Yogyakarta and the many vistas of green paddy fields backed by dramatic volcanic peaks along the way.
Seeing the green landscapes aboard the conventional train (istock/Faiz Zakiy Yamani) 
The new Whoosh high-speed rail (depositphotos.com/uskarp)
You can do Jakarta → Bandung → Yogyakarta → Malang all by train. Jakarta to Bandung nowadays even has a high-speed rail connection with speeds up to 350 km/hr. The last bits beyond Malang (east towards Bali), I think, are better done by tour or bus.
Some of the sections may be a bit long (e.g., up to 8 hours sections in this itinerary), but the trains are modern, air-conditioned, and have food served on board.
For travel to and from stations and other shorter local trips, you can use the Grab or Gojek apps (similar to Uber) to easily hail a ride.
Before you pack for Java – some FAQs
So your backpacking Java route is taking form! But there are always questions to ask. Here’s a little more travel advice I’m gonna throw in there…
How to book your transportation
I book all my buses and trains via 12Go, a booking platform specialised in Asia. This lets you book easily online using a reliable system and with international payment methods.
When you book trains with 12Go, you’ll receive a PDF voucher with a QR Code. You still have to exchange this at the station for the actual ticket on the day, but this is quick and easy. The 12Go booking confirmation even includes a map and pictures of the station entrance, so you know exactly where to go.
If you’re taking trains, make sure you pre-book them at least a day or two, if possible, as popular routes do get fully booked.
Navigating language barriers
While English is not widely spoken in Indonesia, the signage at bus or train stations is often in Indonesian and English. At key hubs such as Jakarta airport station or Surabaya bus station, I’ve even been approached by English-speaking staff ushering me to the correct bay or platform.
(After spending weeks in remote areas of Indonesia where you’re lucky to have just one bus connection per day, I was amazed by the ease of travel when returning to Java!)
Should you take a night train?
If you’re thinking of taking a night train, just know they don’t have any sleeping compartments with beds — they’re just normal trains running at night, with loud station announcements that can wake you constantly. I preferred travelling during the day anyway to see the scenic landscapes passing by.
If you want to do any overnight travel, I suggest getting an executive-class ticket on a coach bus, as this will give you a better chance of catching some Z’s. (Some night trains do offer luxury seats that can fully recline, but this is rare.)
Do you need a visa for Indonesia?
It depends entirely on your nationality and the purpose of your trip. Visalist.io will tell you if a visa is needed. Many nationalities can get a 30-day visa on arrival, which is extendible to 60 days.
When’s the best time to visit Java? (And is the rainy season really that bad?)
The dry season runs from May to September and is typically the recommended best time for Java. When I visited during the rainy season in October, I experienced two days of extreme rain, but was still able to do most things normally. Of course, your mileage may vary…
Do’s, don’ts & cultural etiquette
It’s important to dress modestly. It’s OK to wear shorts as a tourist, and t-shirts are fine, but beachwear or tank tops will look highly out of place anywhere that’s not a beach.
Women won’t need to wear headscarves (Islam is not the only religion here), but tight clothes, showing cleavage, or hot pants are a no. Religious sites require covering of the knees and shoulders; sarongs are usually available.
How much you’ll actually spend on your trip
A backpacker staying only in hostel dorms, booking everything locally, and going for cheap eats can keep it under $30/day.
When I travelled in Java in ‘flashpacker’ style (e.g. private rooms but in basic hotels, sometimes a nicer restaurant or speciality coffee place, more use of tours or first-class train tickets), I spent about $50/day.
Java is tropical but you should still count on varying weather conditions. If you’re going to see the volcanoes, pack some warm clothes and maybe a scarf or bandana. Bring suncream (sometimes difficult or costly to buy locally) and strong insect repellent with DEET. Indonesia uses Type C and Type F sockets — bring a universal travel adapter if necessary. Don’t miss my guide to packing light, which has lots of clever packing tips that will be useful for any trip.
My detailed itinerary
The following is an itinerary for 2 weeks. However, if you have 1 week, you can start your trip in Yogyakarta (jump to the Yogyakarta section) and shorten your stay in Malang.
Days 1 & 2: Jakarta
I should warn you: Jakarta is… a lot.
If you have visions of strolling along beautiful historical streets or exploring vibey tourist-friendly neighbourhoods, then know that’s not what Indonesia’s biggest city (and commercial capital) is all about. It’s essential to come up with the right expectations so that you can have a rewarding visit.
Over 10 million people live in Jakarta. Known on occasion by its unflattering moniker “The Big Durian”, it’s undeniably smoggy, noisy, and notoriously traffic-choked. Its elaborate mix of skyscrapers and bustling inner-city isn’t at all like the postcard-worthy scenery that may have first drawn you to Indonesia. I’ll be honest, it isn’t an ideal welcome to Java.
But here’s a twist: I still think it’s worth spending some time here.
Why?
Firstly, Jakarta offers the chance for a real perspective on metropolitan Indonesia. You’ll experience this frantic commercial centre where so many Javanese live, work, and study. Yes, it can be overwhelming and hard to love at first, but that’s kind of the point. When learning about a country, not everywhere has to be a peachy colonial-era district or a scintillating palm-fringed beach. This is the real Indonesia.
If you are in Java for just a week, I admit you should probably skip Jakarta. Yogyakarta and Malang are the real gems that deserve priority in that case. But if you can spare it, I think Jakarta is worth visiting for at least one full day.
Another reason for this is the food. While you can find great Indonesian meals just about anywhere in Java, nowhere will you find such a culinary convergence as in Jakarta, where restaurants and food markets bring together dishes from all corners of the archipelago.
Hop between the modern downtown and dusty alleys that mix warungs (small eateries) with mechanical shops to find traditional and international cuisines. Street chefs along Jalan Jaksa, complete with their pedagang kaki lima (“five-legged traders” as food cart vendors are known), will take great care of you. Or simply head to Blok M for the ultimate street food and hangout spot.
If you approach Jakarta with only a ‘things to do’ list in hand, you may not quite get your hooks into it. For me, the big unlock for Jakarta was going on some walking tours run by locals that truly brought the city to life. This brought much more of a human dimension to this big concrete jungle.
I highly recommend going on a street food tour with a local who knows exactly where to find all the best stuff. You can see my street food experiences in my vlog from Jakarta. If you want to go on this exact tour I did, which I definitely encourage, you can book it here on GetYourGuide or Viator.
Among the things I tried were various delicious stir fries, sate (grilled skewers with peanut sauce), something called ‘fruit soup’, many deep-fried snacks, and a refreshing warm drink called STMJ that has lots of ginger, honey, and milk.
At Blok M, you’ll also find clay pot dishes, regional cuisine from regions like Sulawesi and Sumatra, and various Indonesian takes on food from elsewhere in Asia.
My other excellent experience was a walking tour of the city centre. I opted for this Jakarta political walk led by a political science major who offers a lot of deeper insights into modern-day Indonesia.
What I liked about this tour was that it skipped some of the basics and went straight into the more meaty topics. However, for a more general introduction, you can also join this full-day tour, which includes Kota Tua and the National Monument (Monas).
Finally, Jakarta is home to Southeast Asia’s largest mosque (which is open to non-Muslims to visit), hosts the country’s National Museum, and has several other worthwhile sights.
When researching Jakarta, you’ll no doubt learn of its notoriously congested roads. This is definitely terrible for locals with a daily commute, but as a tourist you can actually get to many key points fairly easily thanks to a steadily improving public transport.
You can easily get from the airport to the city centre by shuttle train, taking only 45 minutes or so (and of course the train never gets stuck in traffic). The new north-south metro line lets you zip around this axis easily and even reach all the way to Kota Tua (the old town) when the second phase is completed in 2028.
Getting to Bandung, the next city on this itinerary takes only 45 minutes by high-speed rail. It’s super easy and convenient.
For short trips within the city, you can easily hail rides with the Grab or Gojek apps (similar to Uber). Just try to avoid rush hour if you can.
I have some more in-depth recommendations in my detailed take on whether Jakarta is worth visiting. For a visual and on-the-ground guide, be sure to also watch my vlog from Jakarta, in which I’m honest about Jakarta’s shortcomings but also highlight the pros in ways that may help you appreciate it more. (Or maybe my video makes you decide it’s not your cup of tea, which is also valid!)
Get ready to be challenged by Jakarta and remember that if you survive it, you’ll love the calmer and gentler cities further on this route all the more.
Where to stay: I stayed at La Boheme, a calm and vibey hotel near the commercial district. It’s easily reached from the Railink Jakarta airport train, and it’s about 20 minutes north of Monas main square.
The hotel is a little oasis in the chaos, and I recommend it for its strategic location near key transport hubs. On a later visit, I stayed at Hotel Aloft Jakarta Wahid Hasyim. It’s in the Menteng / Cikini district, which has more of a residential vibe and is closer to restaurants and nightlife.
A sleek, pod-style hostel in central Jakarta—just minutes from Monas and Gambir Station
Days 3 & 4: Bandung
Check transport options from Jakarta to Bandung
Just 45 minutes by high-speed rail from Jakarta, Bandung takes you out of the big smoke and provides your first taste of Java’s interior.
Bandung may at first glance seem just about as traffic-challenged as Jakarta, but make no mistake: charm and calm are much easier to find here. Settle in, take a deep breath, and enjoy what was known during the colonial era as the ‘Paris of Java’.
(IStock/Muhammad Faris)
Due to being 768m above sea level, the climate is much more agreeable than Jakarta’s often oppressive heat. In fact, it was a favoured city during colonial times, and you can still find many Dutch and Art Deco-style buildings around the old centre.
Today, Bandung is especially known as a university city with a vibrant student population.
I recommend staying somewhere in the north in one of the leafy neighbourhoods around the Institute of Technology. It’s around these northern parts that you’ll find the most pleasant parks, colonial-era villas, trendy restaurants, and funky cafes. Jakarta’s chaos will quickly become a distant memory here. (There’s even one speciality cafe that I loved that is entirely Studio Ghibli-themed.)
I stayed at D&D Backpackers Guesthouse. It’s one of Bandung’s few true hostels — its owner used to run many hostels in Bali and Lombok, but returned to his home city during the pandemic before starting one here.
He knows that Bandung is sometimes seen as just a ‘stopover’ place, which he’s trying to change by offering some great experiences that are worth staying longer for. Every evening, the hostel crew will take you to some of the best local street food places, and there are two daily tours that are highly worth taking.
Bandung itself is an interesting city, and a walking tour can provide you with some crucial insights into its history. I’m Dutch, so I was particularly fascinated with the old Dutch colonial buildings and the stories behind them.
The shopping and restaurant district of Braga is also worth a wander at night (in case you’re wondering, the bars here serve alcohol). However, it’s especially the sights outside the city, among the highlands, that make it worth a stay.
I went to the rolling tea plantations south of Bandung, walked across Indonesia’s longest suspension bridge, and visited the volcanic crater lake known as Kawah Putih (White Crater). Here you can see the almost cyan-coloured waters shrouded in fog and smell the thick sulfurous air.
I recommend hiking along the rim for some great views, and not only going for quick pictures at the wooden pier inside the lake.
Bandung doesn’t usually feature as prominently in Java travel guides, as far as I can tell, but I think it’s underrated. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I was glad to have included it. It used to take 4+ hours from Jakarta to get to, but nowadays it’s just 45 minutes by high-speed rail, making it a very easy add-on.
While sights like Kawah Putih are well-known among domestic travellers, Bandung feels less touristy overall in an international sense compared to the likes of Yogyakarta. If you enjoy some authenticity, it’s highly worth staying in Bandung.
Note: Some travellers break up the trip from Bandung to Yogyakarta with a stop at Pangandaran beach. I personally didn’t focus much on beaches in Java, as I kept my beach time for more remote islands in Indonesia.
A super clean and modern budget hostel in Bandung’s Cicendo area, just a 10-minute drive from the train station and airport
Days 5 to 7: Yogyakarta
Check transport options from Bandung to Yogyakarta
It’s now time for the first big leg of your epic journey through Java. Getting from West to East Java can take some time: around eight hours by train and over twelve hours via bus. Taking the train is what I recommend. The scenery seen from the carriage windows is lovely, especially during the first few hours as you traverse the mountains with the Cikuray volcano poking up on the horizon every now and then.
Yogyakarta is one of Java’s most inviting cities with its stunning array of historic temples, the atmospheric city centre, and beautiful countryside.
(depositphotos.com/lensanasrul)
The district of Kota Gede is a great place to start. This former town was swallowed by Yogyakarta, but the art traditions remain in place. Uncover a world of workshops, serpentine alleys of great food, and welcoming courtyards.
As you explore, you may see the art of Batik’s creation. This is the application of cloth dying. You can try your hand at this or visit the Batik Museum. Here, you can learn about the ancient technique and even join a workshop.
If you find yourself with more time to fill, head to Kraton Palace and Taman Sari. The former is the home of the Sultan, and the palace is a remarkable example of Javanese architecture. Taman Sari, or Water Castle, boasts several immaculate water features, pavilions, bathhouses, and even an underground mosque.
Once the sun has gone down, the culinary brilliance of Yogyakarta goes up. The Malioboro Street Market is a 24-hour extravaganza, but it’s at night when you should visit. Shop and sightsee to your heart’s content before exploring the Lesehan for local cuisine, live music, and performers.
However, it’s the sights around Yogyakarta that bring most people here.
I recommend an early start for Borobodur temple so you can have a sunrise experience at this magnificent Buddhist monument, which is the largest of such sites on the planet.
Where other celebrated temples are sprawling complexes, Borobudur is one single, enormous temple. The towering pyramid features nine levels, over 2,600 intricately carved panels, and more than 500 Buddha statues. On the top level alone, there are 72 stupas, each with its own statue.
I’ve been at Borobodur during sunrise, which was a magical experience as it was utterly quiet with only the chatter of tropical birds. I’ve also explored it in the daytime when tour groups and school excursions flood the zone.
The structure’s grandeur is undiminished, but you may have to deal with crowds and being approached by many students. While it’s fun to be asked to take pictures with them (as so often happens in Indonesia), after the 10th time, the novelty of it can wear thin! I recommend the morning experience if you can.
Next, head to Prambanan Temple — arguably even more stunning than this morning’s experience. The 10th-century Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva, is split into three sections, with complex carvings and 47-meter structures combining to create an ethereal experience.
Seeing all the sights in a single day is a big adventure. With a little help from a tour, you can sit back and enjoy the unforgettable scenery, culture, and history. This top-rated full-day tour on GetYourGuide includes sunrise at Borobudur, a visit to Prambanan, and an excursion to the Merapi volcano by Jeep. The price includes all entry tickets.
A tranquil 5-star resort set amidst 22 hectares of lush tropical gardens in Ngaglik, Yogyakarta
Sustainable boutique hotel
$$
Adults-only B&B with retro-inspired decor combined with a social, homey atmosphere
Day 7 & 8: Malang
Check transport options from Yogyakarta to Malang
The highland city of Malang offers pleasant temperatures and a friendly vibe. Just as in any Javan city, you’ll find shoals of honking traffic flow through the avenues, but turn your focus to the details and you’ll find lots of charming tree-lined streets and a laidback ambience.
I stayed at Snooze Malang, a superb hostel with dorms and private rooms in a leafy residential street. I 100% recommend it if you’re backpacking through Java. Otherwise, check out Ascent Hotel & Cafe Malang for a budget-friendly hotel with an epic rooftop view.
Like Bandung, Malang is a university city with a lively scene. I had already expected it to be a great base for excursions, but I also liked exploring the city itself. Dedicate at least a full day to Malang so you can stroll the markets and soak up the atmosphere.
There are some wonderful little oases to discover in Malang; my favourite is the Pipir Lepen cafe, hidden at the back of the flower market in a lush, jungled setting beside the river. I kept going back here to catch my breath after some sightseeing.
Not far from the inner city, Jodipan is Malang’s colourful Rainbow Village, a former slum where every structure is covered in bright rainbow colours. It’s the result of an ingenious student-led project designed to attract tourism to this neighbourhood.
Yep, it’s blatant Instagram bait — but it worked. The local economy turned around, and one of the worst slums became a much-loved area. It was such a success that it inspired two adjacent projects: Kampung Tridi on the other side of the river (reached by a colourful footbridge) and Kampung Biru Arema on the other side of the main road, also known as the Blue Village.
It’s a delight to explore the labyrinth of alleys filled with colourful walls, murals, and bright umbrellas. You may quickly find yourself lost in some small residential passageways, but don’t worry, the local people are friendly and welcome your presence.
Besides taking pictures of the colourful houses, it’s a nice idea to stay for a meal or drink here so the residents benefit from your visit. You’ll need to pay a 5000 IDR entrance fee for Jodipan (a negligible 0.30 USD or EUR).
Apart from the Rainbow Villages, there is also the Heritage Village, one of Malang’s oldest neighbourhoods transformed into a tourist destination. The historically significant houses are probably of more specific interest to Indonesians, but even so, you can enjoy exploring narrow traffic-free streets and cute coffee shops and restaurants.
Because I had an extra day to spare in Malang, I rented a scooter and visited the tea fields at Kuneer Hill. This large plantation is open to visitors and includes wooden walkways, viewing points to a distant volcano, and treehouse-like platforms with ladders, making it a popular spot for Indonesians to visit and take pictures.
It’s a lovely place for a refreshing walk and to try the local tea. It’s a bit out of the way (at least 1 hour) so I suggest this as a bonus activity.
Besides being a great destination in its own right, Malang is also an excellent springboard to several epic sights to its east, which brings me to the next section…
Days 9 to 12: Mt. Bromo, Mt. Ijen & Tumpak Sewu Waterfall
We’ve reached my favourite part of this trip, filled with epic nature sights that are sure to leave an incredible impression.
There are different ways to visit these sights. You can:
- Stay in Malang and make individual trips to Mt. Bromo and Tumpak Sewu (backtracking each time to Malang). Then move to the city of Banyuwangi and, move to the city of Banyuwangi and take a day tour to Mt. Ijen.
- Do some or all of these sights as part of a multi-day organised local tour. You can start in Malang, visit all the places without any backtracking, and end your trip in Banyuwangi, where you can take a ferry to Bali.
If your time is limited, I recommend doing everything by tour. If you’re not in a rush, you could do things in more of a piecemeal fashion. It’ll be slower for sure, but it will let you space out your activities a bit more.
Visiting Mt. Bromo
Jaw-dropping volcanic landscapes await inside the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, which is home to five volcanoes as well as an expansive, desert-like caldera. I rate it a must-see, though the quality of the experience can vary greatly, so it’s worth planning it well.
While travellers usually refer to the experience as simply “Mount Bromo”, it’s not just one mountain but involves a massive area of over 500 km2 (125,000 acres).
It encompasses several colossal volcanic peaks, with Mount Bromo‘s summit being over 7,500 feet (2,329m) above sea level. It’s backed by Mount Semeru, one of Indonesia’s most active volcanoes that often spews a huge plume of ash. Bromo is located inside the epic Tengger crater, which is over 10km in diameter. This expanse is known as the ‘Sea of Sand’ and delivers some of the most otherworldly vistas.
You can tour all of these places during the day, but it’s even better to go for a sunrise experience. Seeing the peaks slowly hit by an orange morning glow high above the clouds will be difficult to forget. It does involve a rather inconvenient 4 AM or 5 AM rise if you’re starting from Malang, but it will reward you with the best views.
Be sure to rug up, as the mornings will be quite crisp if not a little teeth-chattering. If you’re going to the popular King Kong Hill viewing spot, you can grab a hot coffee or hot chocolate before hitting the path. The ash-filled air at the crater rim of Mount Bromo can sting your throat, especially if you’re sensitive, so you may also want to pack a dust mask or bandana.
Take a day tour to Mt. Ijen
The park is best explored by a 4×4 jeep on a guided tour, as some parts are reached only via dusty unpaved roads. Doing it yourself may involve driving on a motorbike in pitch black, so I’d say this is only for the more swashbuckling among us.
A more prudent DIY trip would be to the village of Cemoro Lawang during the day (about 2 to 3 hours from Malang) and to stay the night there. Don’t bother with public transportation, however, as it is very cumbersome and time-consuming. For most travellers, a 4×4 tour will be the most accessible way to see the highlights.
Having done Mt. Bromo twice, I must warn you that this is one of Java’s most popular sights, and timing is essential for a good experience. Absolutely avoid the weekends as this is when the national park is besieged by domestic Indonesian tourists, making it a challenge to avoid the elbows and selfie sticks. Traffic jams on the narrow mountain roads are also a regular issue these days.
According to local guides I spoke with, there are about 500 jeeps within the national park on weekdays. That may already sound like a lot, but the area is huge and has many different viewpoints, so there is still enough capacity.
However, over 2000 vehicles enter the park on weekends, making it incredibly crowded and a lot harder to enjoy. You can get a four times calmer experience by booking your tour on a weekday.
Visiting Tempuk Sewu
This absolutely massive tiered waterfall is one of the most stunning sights in Java. You may have seen it pass by on social media a few times, as it’s a popular location for drone photography.
On a clear day, you can capture the lush, misty jungles, the semicircular cliffs where the water drops down 120 meters, and the volcanic peak of Mount Semeru off in the horizon, all in one overview shot.
(In fact, this view is what I have as the homepage header image at Indie Traveller currently.)
The base of the waterfall takes a 20-30 minute hike down some stairs to reach. There are a lot of small streams here that make the path quite wet and slippery, but helpfully, you’ll be given Crocs-like clogs to wear so your shoes don’t need to get wet.
I loved the spectacular amphitheatre-like waterfall, but the real surprise was the hike back up via the south side of the canyon. It passes several smaller cascading waterfalls, some beautiful rock formations, and a cave, alongside multi-levelled water pools known as Goa Tetes.
It’s these little gems that elevate the experience from just a viewpoint-based photographic exercise to a fun adventure activity that can keep you busy for at least two or three hours.
It’s easiest to visit Tempuk Sewu on a tour from Malang. Go for an early morning start to avoid the traffic and get there before the midday rush.
There are so many highlights on this tour, starting from the destination itself: jaw-dropping views of the Tumpak Sewu waterfall. The pace is just right, giving you time to explore and soak it all in. It’s a journey that’s well worth it for both the scenery and the value.
Tip: Bring dry clothes — you will get wet.
You can drive there yourself if you prefer, but it’s a 2-hour drive one way — first along very straight and boring roads, then along a 2-lane provincial artery that is rather busy with traffic, so I don’t think it’s perfect road trip material.
That said, if you have your own transportation, you can visit some other viewing points giving different angles onto Mount Semeru, such as at Bundu peak.
Visiting Mt. Ijen
Finally, there is Mt. Ijen. You might wonder why there’s another volcano in this itinerary, but this one is quite special.
With an early 2 AM start, you’ll begin walking under the stars on your way to the Blue Fire. Any complaints you may have will be left behind once you see miners carrying some 70kg of gear..
It houses Kawah Ijen crater lake, the world’s largest acidic crater lake, where miners do the back-breaking work of collecting fluorescent-yellow bricks of pure sulphur. It is also famous for its blue fire phenomenon: a vibrant blue glow, visible at night, that is caused by burning sulfur gases.
Soon enough, the Blue Fire will come into view, a glow that rises from deep within the crater. Being here in the dark of night among plumes of smoke and beams of flashlights angling in different directions makes you feel like you’re on an expedition to an alien world, a feeling only enhanced by the necessity of a gas mask to handle the sulfur clouds.
The hike, however, must continue. You’ll put one foot in front of the other as you make your way to Ijen’s Crater. Looking over the largest acid lake on the island, the sun rises, leading to a prismatic mix of warm colours and ice-cold blues.
book a Mt. Ijen guided tour 
It’s not always possible to go down to the blue flame due to changing conditions or temporary restrictions. The crater, including the blue flame zone, was closed in July 2024 due to seismic activity. The area officially reopened, but restricted access applies—you can view the blue flame from a safe distance, but closer zones remain off-limits for safety.
I recommend asking other travellers or posting on the backpacking Indonesia Facebook group to stay updated and know the conditions during your visit. If the area is restricted, you can only go to the crater rim, which is still quite cool.
If you’re on a tour that already includes Ijen, you’re all set. If you want to do it on your own, the nearby city of Banyuwangi will be the perfect base. Gas masks can be rented on-site, but don’t forget to pack a flashlight or headlamp. There are also convenient, organised day trip options from Banyuwangi, such as this Mt. Ijen tour with pick-up in Banyuwangi.
Onward to Bali?
Check ferry connections to Bali
From Banyuwangi, you can head north to the Ketapang Ferry Port. Regular ferries depart for Gilamanuk, where you can book ahead and secure a transfer to wherever you want to go in Bali, from Ubud to Kuta.
While Banyuwangi is often treated as just a waypoint to Bali, it has many interesting areas nearby, including mangroves, savannahs, and a mysterious hairy forest. Contributor Huub wrote this useful overview of the attractions in Banyuwangi.
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